Red hue after applying NonRedKey?

[Bob]

I agree with Steve, a better green screen setup will help a lot. You need greater separation (distance) between the actor and the green screen. The more you can separate the two the better -- there will be less spill. Don't worry if your green screen backdrop does not fill the frame. Apply a garbage matte to the clip to trim off the portions you don't want. Then apply the desired keying effect. More even lighting of the backdrop will also help. Be sure the actor is well lighted.

I don't know whether there is a keying plugin that will work with Premiere Elements that has good spill suppression. I normally do my keying in After Effects using a professional level keying plugin and haven't had a need to research one for Premiere. Maybe someone else has done that and can recommend one.

One thing you can try with your existing clips is to add another Image control effect (in effects under the adjust category) after your chromakey and nonredkey effects. Then adjust the hue setting. The sample below was done in Premiere Elements using your original image and the chromakey, nonredkey, and then image control with hue set to +15 degrees. Not a universal solution, but it may work for some situations.

1test.jpg

[Steve Grisetti]

I think that looks great, Bob!

[RJ Johnston]

Working with a still picture is one thing, but trying to get this working on video might be something else, way more difficult that is.

When I tried it out here, I thought that Videomerge did a good job of elimininating the green from the edge of the face, but the "greenscreen" background was still showing detail no matter what setting I tried with Videomerge. I decided to put a solid green (0,255,0) color matte on video 1 with the original on video 2, with the videomerge effect applied to the original. That makes the greenscreen more green and easier to work with in the next step. Export that sequence and work on the exported file using ChromaKey effects. You can have more than one chromakey effect going. Have one for midtones, highlights, shadows, for example. You should be able to clean up the greenscreen pretty good.

[Jayell]

A couple great ideas there, RJ (meaning I'd never thought of them ). I work with straight house-lighting so my results are pretty marginal. But I'm always looking for ways to make it better until I get some decent lighting.

[roadsideron]

I chromakeyed all three characters in this video.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gfFXRiCm75U[/youtube]

The Instructor and the biker came out clean with just the chromakey. The bowtie character was too close to the green screen and when I applied the non red key to remove the green fringes it turned his shirt a reddish hue. I use 4 four foot cheap 20 dollar ceiling shop lights placed vertically alongside both sides of the greenscreen and two ceiling lights placed to either side, and to the front of the main character. I used to use those lights you are using but there's no way to get the screen lit evenly. Those four foot ceiling lights work perfectly. If you move the character away from the screen you can always garbage matte the edges out if your screen does not fill up the whole frame. I do that now. I don't worry about filling the frame with green screen I just use the four point garbage matte to get rid of it. Also, if you use the chromakey instead of the greenkey you can pull the key tight up against the character to get rid of the fringe, but you have to have the character away from the green screen to keep the spill off of the face. Sometimes the non red key works wonders, other times it doesn't. It depends on your initial footage.

[Steve Grisetti]

These really are great examples of green screen work, Ron -- in addition to being some of the most entertaining instructional videos I've ever seen!

[roadsideron]

Thanks, Steve. I just finished the first 30 minutes of the script of my beginning alegbra video. This one is straightforward, just me and no other characters. I got a haircut yesterday so I'm now ready to shoot the video for it, then edit it together. I'm going to use a teleprompter for the first time and it should turn a 3 day project into a few hours. You should see the out takes of all the lines I flubbed trying to memorize them.

[Steve Grisetti]

Flubbed the lines? Come on, Ron. How hard can it be to say "negative B plus and minus the square root of B squared minus four AC over two A?"

[Jayell]

[hasso]

Dear all,
Thanks for all the valuable hints... I am really surprised seeing all whose detailed answers. Already got Steves book(Cool Tricks) and I am sure Muvipix is my place to share and improve my knowledge and getting in touch with a community where I am so welcome.

One question for ron:

... I used to use those lights you are using but there's no way to get the screen lit evenly. Those four foot ceiling lights work perfectly.

What lights do you mean? the hardware store halogen beamers?

@RJ The idea applying Videomerge did work actually quite well though taking its time. I did as you suggested and it works. I guess they put some of the Ultrakey functionality from big Premiere into that. I did even repeat that process on the result of the first outcome and it went even better, surprisingly. Thank you very much, it will spare me another shot.

Also I stumbled about FXHome CompositeLabhttp://fxhome.com/compositelab-pro trial. Its got a dedicated spill suppression. And its got also Chromakeying and what not else. But its Userinterface is different to PRE and its got slightly different workflows. Cost would be 150$. Results are only marginally better than with RJ´s approach.

So far the decision was between spending time with Rj´s approach, buy CompositeLab Pro or get a better lighting. I went for better lighting ordered my self some daylight softbox. So far as I understand you guys the greenscreen, though quite bad, had not been the source of the problem but the lighting of the actor and the distance. I used just a normal 150w bulb behind the cam without any reflector towards the actor. so a softbox will surely improve things.

Only problem remaining is to place the actor more distant to the greenscreen. The height of the room I am using is just 2meter. So if I move too much away from the Background the actors head is not anymore covered by the greenscreen. In addition I got only 3 meter distance from the screen and the cam - the room is very small. Using stationary equipment like ron is also not an option since that room serves actually different purposes. Any Suggestions on greenscreens in small rooms?

So far ... Thanks to all of you

[roadsideron]

Here's the lights I use:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R ... ogId=10053

These are the cheapest lights available. They don't come with the T-8 bulbs, which are about 5 bucks apiece. I use 5000k in mine. They also don't come with plugs. I had to buy cheap extension cords and splice them to the lights. You can get lights with cords but these lights had plastic covers which diffuse the light very well. Once I took the time to install the plugs I only have to stand them upright and I'm good to go. Perfect lighting on me and my green screen. The weight isn't listed on the site but they only weigh a couple of pounds with the bulbs.

In order to keep the actor's head within the green screen area raise the height of the camera.

[John 'twosheds' McDonald]

Flubbed the lines? Come on, Ron. How hard can it be to say "negative B plus and minus the square root of B squared minus four AC over two A?"

Well, for a professional actor like you Steve, lines are the easy part..... (Looking forward to some video from the Acacia Theatre production...)

[John 'twosheds' McDonald]

Any Suggestions on greenscreens in small rooms?

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